Oolong tea is a fascinating tea category because it includes a wide range styles and flavors. Oolong teas that are very lightly oxidized share similarities to many green teas, while heavily oxidized oolongs are more akin to black teas. Let’s take a look back at the history and style of oolong tea, particular the Wuyi teas of Fujian Province, China – the birthplace of oolong.

The Birthplace of Oolong

In the mid-1600s a new style of tea-making originated from the Wuyi Mountains in Northern Fujian Province. The farming community in this area devised processing steps and growing and harvesting methods that were a departure from earlier styles, which focused predominately on green tea. These methods, which carefully oxidized the tea leaves to develop new aromas and flavors, would eventually spread south to Anxi County in Fujian and into Guangdong Province’s Chazhou area in the Phoenix Mountains. Eventually, this new innovation in tea-making made its way into Taiwan, and formed the foundation of the world’s production of oolong tea.

The teas produced in the Wuyi Mountains became known as “Min Bei Wulong Cha,” or Northern Fujian Black Dragon tea. In fact, our English interpretation of oolong is a derivative of wulong (Black Dragon). Early writings also made reference to the teas of this area as Yancha, or Rock Tea, which is a reference to the rocky soil of the Wuyi Mountains and the characteristic rocky minerality of its teas. The rocky aftertaste we experience in many Wuyi oolong teas is known as yanyun.

Today, around 11% of total tea production in China consists of oolong. And the majority of oolong is produced in the mountainous regions of Fujian Province. As a nod to its history of innovation, Fujian Province is also the birthplace of black tea and white tea.

Processing Steps for Oolong Tea

To understand the characteristics of Wuyi oolong tea, one must first understand the general processing steps involved in oolong production. Though the following steps are very simplified, they will aid in later understanding of the effects of processing on the qualities of oolong tea.
Harvesting

Tea pickers generally select between 3-5 leaves, along with their stems, depending upon the specific tea being produced. Wuyi oolongs typically contain older leaf material than some other styles, meaning the harvesting of leaves for oolong production occurs much later than some other styles. Older leaves are selected because they are thicker and can endure the kneading the shaping that will occur in oolong production.

Withering

Oolong tea is typically laid to wither outdoors in the sun or in diffused light. In later stages the leaves may be moved indoors to continue withering. The goal of this step is to prepare the tea for further processing by reducing its moisture content slowly and allowing fragrance to develop.

Oxidation

Oolongs in general are referred to as semi-oxidized teas, meaning that oxidation is initiated during processing yet controlled and halted at some point before the tea is considered to be fully oxidized (such as black tea). The great range of oxidation levels in oolong tea means some lightly oxidized oolongs share characteristics of green tea, while other, highly oxidized oolongs closely resemble black tea.

A distinctive step in the production of oolong tea is bruising. During this critical step, the leaves are shaken, lightly rolled or tumbled until the edges of the leaves bruise. This bruising causes cellular damage, which initiates oxidation. This step may be repeated until the tea’s processor reaches a desired level of oxidation.

Teas produced in the Wuyi Mountains are known to be more heavily oxidized, often ranging in oxidation from 50-75 percent. These oolongs frequently have a stronger woody or nutty character and can be intensely fruity and sweet.

Fixing and Shaping

After bruising, the tea leaves are heated to further reduce the moisture content and reach a point at which the enzymes are denatured, meaning oxidation is halted. At this point the tea is shaped into its final form, which in the case of Wuyi oolong tea is generally a twisted spindle.

Drying and Roasting

The tea is finally dried to reduce moisture content further and make the tea shelf-stable. Smaller, artisan producers may use baskets of hot coals for drying. A secondary step, known as roasting, is common in Wuyi oolong tea production. Roasting changes the flavor of the tea, often adding to its complexity.

Classic Wuyi Oolongs

There are numerous varietals and tea types being produced as Wuyi Oolongs. The following is a look at just a few of the teas that can easily be found in the American tea market.

Shui Xian

Shui Xian is generally very dark, and often very accessible in price and availability. It is commonly paired with food or used as a daily drinker-type tea. Shui Xian is often associated with a honey-like taste.

Dahongpao

True Dahongpao is one of the “famous four bushes” teas, and is incredibly rare and expensive. There are only six mother tea bushes remaining, and they each produce about 400 grams of very expensive tea. In the tea marketplace today, Dahongpao, or Big Red Robe, often refers to a blend of yancha that has been created for a desired taste similar to Dahongpao.

Origin: the legend is that a local tea farmer saved the ailing Chinese emperor by serving him this tea. The emperor showed his thanks by giving the tea bush his crimson robe.

Rou Gui

Rou Gui translates to “Cassia Bark,” which is similar to cinnamon. It’s known for its spicy taste and sweet fragrance. Rou Gui is generally more floral that other Wuyi oolongs. It has risen in popularity steadily since in the 1980s, and good Rou Gui can be quite expensive.