Imagine ordering a cup of tea at a restaurant or cafe, or making one at home. In America, and in the Western world more broadly, we tend to think of tea as a single cup of roughly 8-12 ounces of brewed beverage. But in much of the world tea is infused with water repeatedly and enjoyed in numerous, smaller servings. This style of brewing, known as Gong Fu Cha (literally, “right way tea”), was developed centuries ago by tea drinkers seeking to unlock the full potential of tea.

Gong Fu tea-making may seem daunting or mysterious, but this style of brewing, along with the equipment needed, is relatively simple and requires only an understanding of a few key concepts. In this post we’re going to reveal the history of Gong Fu tea and discuss the tools and methods that unveil the full flavor, aroma and body in your tea.

The Basics of Gong Fu Cha

A kettle filling a gaiwan of tea leaves

Gong Fu Cha simply refers to a popular manner of brewing tea that began in China in the 18th century and spread throughout the tea-drinking world. In contrast to a typical Western cup of tea, Gong Fu Cha calls for a larger amount of tea leaves and less water, with very brief infusion times. As the leaves are re-infused over the course of a tea session, the infusion times gradually grow longer and longer. It’s when brewing in this way that we have the opportunity to experience tea in small, unique moments that continue to change throughout the tea’s lifespan. The flavor, aroma and body from the first infusion will likely be markedly different than the seventh, for instance.

A Brief History of Gong Fu Cha

Gong Fu Cha, which again means “right way tea,” is a concept that is closely related to Kung Fu in China. Though Kung Fu is often associated with martial arts, in Chinese the term is related to the words “skill,” “art” and “effort.” So, then, Gong Fu Cha refers to a preparation of tea that is skillful, and a dedication to the art of good tea.

There are multiple perspectives on the origins of Gong Fu Cha. Some believe the creation of this brewing style corresponded with the proliferation of oolong production in the Wuyi Mountains of Fujian Province. But perhaps the most widely accepted origin story is that Gong Fu Cha began in the 18th century by the people of Chaozhou in the Chaoshan area of Guangdong Province. At the very least, it is understood that the Chaozhou people were the first to adopt Gong Fu principles as a staple of everyday life.

The Simplicity and Beauty of the Gaiwan

There are many options when selecting a brewer for Gong Fu Cha, including a wide range of materials, styles and sizes, though most options are a variation of a small teapot or a gaiwan. The gaiwan simply consists of a saucer, a bowl and a lid. In fact, it’s literal translation is “lidded bowl.” The lid of the gaiwan allows the tea to be properly infused in the bowl. The tea can then be poured into a pitcher and then distributed among several smaller cups, though it isn’t unheard of for drinkers to consume directly from the gaiwan.

brewed tea being poured from a gaiwan into a pitcher

The design of the gaiwan hasn’t really changed over past centuries. It is essentially a smaller version of its predecessor, the chawan (“tea bowl”) that was commonly used during the Ming Dynasty from 1368-1644. The chawan is a bit larger than the gaiwan, and the tea that was brewed in it was consumed directly from the chawan, rather than decanted into a pitcher or smaller cups.

The gaiwan can be used alone, but is often accompanied by any number of brewing tools used in Gong Fu Cha. Along with a pitcher to decant the brewed tea, and smaller cups to serve it, the Gong Fu Cha set may also include a tea tray to collect spilled liquid, a pick a break apart caked teas (such as puer), tongs to dose the dry leaves, or perhaps a tea pet. Tea pets are akin to a tea lover’s mascot, and are often coated with leftover tea during a drinking session. They have been around since the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368) and are thought to bring good luck. Commonly made from Yixing clay, the tea pet will change in color, texture and fragrance thanks to all the tea it’s been fed.

A dragon tea pet sitting on a tea tray

Simple Steps for Brewing Gong Fu Cha

Here are some basic steps for brewing Gong Fu Cha. All that is required is a gawain or other small tea pot, a tea of your choosing and a bit of practice.

1. Heat all of the brewing tools. Pour hot water into the brewing vessel, then use that water to warm your pitcher, cups and other implements.

2. Rinse the tea leaves*.Pour hot water onto the tea leaves. Discard this water, but pay attention to the aroma being released from the leaves.

3. Infuse the leaves.Fill the brewing vessel with water. The initial infusions will be very short. Subsequent infusions will take longer and longer, depending upon taste.

4. Decant and enjoy.Pour the infusion into a pitcher, then distribute amongst the drinking cups.

*Green teas and white teas often skip this rinsing step, since they can contain a high amount of antioxidants and beneficial nutrients that wash away with the rinse.

A Few Gong Fu Cha Brewing Tips

The amount of tea to use depends on the preference of the user, but roughly 1 gram of tea for every 15 milliliters of water is a good starting point. If your gaiwan is around 100 ml, then start with about 6 g.

Does the tea taste harsh? Consider shortening your infusion time, or removing some of the leaves from your brewing vessel.

Is the flavor underwhelming or “weak”? Allow your next infusion to last a bit longer to bring out more flavor.

Start with an infusion as brief as 5 seconds. Then increase that to 10 seconds. Then to 15 seconds. Taste the tea and get a feel for where it wants to go. Stretch the time as you go. Proper brewing has no set infusion time, but relies on the relationship between the brewer and their tea.

A Guide to Water Temperature Depending on Tea Type

This is a loose guide, as the temperature may depend on the specific tea being brewed and the desired flavor outcome. It is helpful to have a temperature controlled kettle, or thermometer.

Young Raw Puer: 90-95 C / 194-203 F
Aged Raw Puer: 95-100 C / 203-212 F
Ripe Puer: 95-100 C / 203-212 F
White Tea: 85 C / 185 F
Oolong Tea: 90-95 C / 194-203 F
Black Tea: 95 C / 203 F
Green Tea: 75 C / 167 F

You can also take a lesson from Chinese tea making and use the “eyes” of your water as a guide to temperature. Smaller bubbles correspond to the size of different eyes, and help determine the stage of boiling. This may take some practice.

Shrimp Eyes = 70-75 C / 158-167 F
Crab Eyes = 75-85 C / 167-185 F
Fish Eyes = 90-95 C / 194-203 F

If you are interested in brewing Gong Fu Cha, Mammoth Espresso holds weekly tea tastings each Wednesday at 2 pm. These tastings – which are free to the public – often incorporate Gong Fu Cha brewing principles, and is a great place to ask questions. Mammoth Espresso also sells a variety of gaiwans, teapots, trays, pitchers and cups for Gong Fu Cha, and our staff is happy to outfit you with everything you need to start your home brewing practice.